Monday 10 February 2014

The Bats of Kasanka: Part Five - Mana Pools

Part One - Kariba
Part Two - Forest Inn
Part Three - Kasanka, the Mammals
Part Four - Kasanka, the Birds


Bright and early on October 24 my dad and I drove south from Lusaka, hoping to hit the border with Zimbabwe by breakfast time. There had been an incredible amount of rain the night before, which had soaked into the 'main road' (dirt tracks winding alongside the tarmac, which was under repairs for a long distance). I'm glad we left as early as we did, because as the morning went on, the now very muddy 'road' was being made worse and worse by the heavy trucks going to and from Zimbabwe. It must have been a nightmare by the end of the day!

The border was pretty quick and painless, and we headed for Makuti Hotel, where we stopped for brunch. After that we descended the escarpment into the Zambezi Valley, and on towards Nyamepi campsite in Mana Pools National Park, where we camped for three nights.

We crossed the border at Kariba rather than the more direct route through Chirundu, because the Chirundu border post is apparently very slow and just awful in general.
We stayed in Nyamepi, and made regular visits to Mana Mouth and Long Pool, plus a couple of visits to Vundu Point and Mucheni camp.


View from our campsite, in Nyamepi. Not bad!
The camp
View from Mucheni
Long Pool
Mana Mouth
Long Pool again
The hills in Zambia, across the Zambezi River. Vundu Point
We had some fantastic mammals sightings, of 19 species: Vervet Monkey, Chacma Baboon, Smith's Bush Squirrel, Lion, African Wild Dog, Side-striped Jackal, Spotted Hyaena, Dwarf Mongoose, Banded Mongoose, Elephant, Hippopotamus, Common Warthog, Impala, Common Eland, Greater Kudu, Nyala, Waterbuck and Plains Zebra.

African Buffalo
Dwarf Mongoose
Common Eland
Elephant, Hippo and Nile Crocodile
Greater Kudu male
Nyala
Plains (Burchell's) Zebra
Side-striped Jackal
There was a dead hippo at one of the pools, upon which a pride of Lions was feasting over the three days we were around. There were at least 7 Lions, including males, females and a few cubs.


The Wild Dogs put on a particularly good show. The afternoon we arrived they had killed three Impala, and we drove up and watched them feeding. They stayed in the area whilst we were there, and hunted again on our last evening in the park. We saw them make a half-hearted chase of a Waterbuck, and apparently they caught an Impala again that evening, which we didn't see.




And there were, of course, some great Elephant encounters. One bull walked through our neighbour's campsite during the middle of the day, very calmly eating the Faidherbia seed pods.


How could you not love a face like this?
I set up the trail camera again in the campsite, although it was not as effective as in Kasanka.
I got Vervet Monkey, Impala and Spotted Hyaena.

Spotted Hyaena
Impala
Other than the masses of Nile Crocodiles, reptiles were hard to find. I got African Striped Skink (Trachylepis striata) and Serrated Hinged Terrapin (Pelusios sinuatus).

Seven extremely convincing reasons so avoid water
Serrated Hinged Terrapin

 Birds, on the other hand, were plentiful and easy to find.
127 species all up, and the highlights were: Green-backed Heron, Glossy Ibis, Hadeda Ibis, Saddle-billed Stork, Spur-winged Goose, Hooded Vulture, Bateleur, Martial Eagle, Crested Guineafowl, Water Thick-knee, White-crowned Lapwing, Marsh Sandpiper, Little Stint, African Skimmer, Lilian's Lovebird, White-browed Coucal, Verreaux's Eagle-owl, Square-tailed Nightjar, Bohm's Spinetail, Broad-billed Roller, Southern Carmine Bee-eater, Southern Ground-hornbill, Trumpeter Hornbill, Mosque Swallow, Eastern Nicator, Arnot's Chat, Grey-headed Bush-shrike, Red-billed Oxpecker, Cut-throat Finch, Lesser Masked-weaver and Purple Indigobird.

Arnot's Chat
Black-winged Stilt
Brown-hooded Kingfisher struggling to swallow a frog
Crested Guineafowl
Hooded Vulture
Lilian's Lovebird
Marabou Stork
Marsh Sandpiper
Mosque Swallow, carrying nesting materials. They were building a nest inside a hollow in a tree branch

Red-billed Quelea flock
Southern Carmine Bee-eater
Verreaux's Eagle-owl
White-backed Vulture
White-fronted Bee-eater
Wood Sandpiper
And that was it. We eventually had to say goodbye to amazing Mana Pools, and I am still looking forward to next time!


This was also the last part of our 10-day trip to Kasanka in Zambia. We drove back to Harare on 27 October 2013, where I spent my last two weeks before flying back to Australia.

Thanks for reading! And look forward to a few more blog posts still to come.

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